Soap Challenges Starting Up March 24

colors for pear soap 150x150 Soap Challenges Starting Up March 24About this time last year I began planning some Soap Challenges that ended up being extremely fun and rewarding for so many soapmakers. I was asked to do it again soon, and my reply was always the same: “Next year!”

Well, it’s finally next year, and I have a few more fun ideas in the works! It’s going to be a scaled DOWN version of what we did the first time around as far as the number of weeks we will be doing, but it will be a scaled UP version in terms of the skills involved. I have four weeks of challenges planned, two of the four I have not attempted myself, but have seen on other soapmaker’s blogs and will be learning right along with you!

Here’s the schedule:

Week One March 24th: Tiger Stripe

Week Two March 31st: Elemental Swirl

Week Three April 7th: Mica Swirl Tops

~BREAK~

Week Four April 21st: Leopard Spots

Materials needed: Aside from the usual soapmaking supplies, you will need plenty of mixing cups, micas, and either a tea strainer or a piece of pantyhose stretched over a jar of mica with a rubberband for the elemental swirl, more micas for the mica swirl tops, and piping bags or large ziplock freezer bags for the leopard spots.

These are somewhat advanced techniques, but will give everyone good practice! I will post the first challenge on Sunday, March 24th with a link to an instrucational video and some photos of examples of the technique. Participants will have until Saturday to make their soaps and post on their blog, Facebook or YouTube. I will open up a link post on Saturday for everyone to post their work.

If you are ready to expand your skills and join us, please comment below with your name, where you are from, and what you are most excited about learning!

WEEK ONE: Tiger Stripe Challenge
WEEK ONE: Tiger Stripe Link-Up
WEEK TWO: Elemental Swirl Challenge

On the Curing Rack: Caribbean Diva

After asking my Facebook fans for some inspiration, I decided to go with Sharun Fetzer’s suggestion to make a soap with the “elemental” swirl. So called, I believe because the end result is somewhat like fire and water with its vibrant shades of orange and blue. The basic premise is to make two different in-the-pot swirls with a mica line in-between the two layers. I chose to use micas from The Conservatorie, plus a neon orange colorant from Brambleberry.

The scent is Caribbean Diva – my own blend of a super sweet fruity-floral fragrance mixed with creamy coconut. So perfect for this brightly colored soap! Here it is in the mold:

Caribbean Diva ITM2 On the Curing Rack: Caribbean Diva

Caribbean Diva soap in the mold

And the exciting reveal:

caribbea diva On the Curing Rack: Caribbean Diva

Caribbean Diva Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

Caribbean Diva tops On the Curing Rack: Caribbean Diva

Swirly tops – Caribbean Diva soap

This fabulous soap will be available at Greatcakessoapworks.com on March 8th!

On the Curing Rack: Pina Colada Soap

The Pina Colada soap was a fun one to make! I started with the scent and created a soap based on the colors and design of a pineapple. The bottom layer is a deep golden yellow like the inside of a pineapple, then I added a portion of green to resemble the pineapple top, and then added a layer of darker gold to look like the outside of a ripe pineapple. It’s very impressionistic, but I thought it turned out pretty neat:

pina colada soap On the Curing Rack: Pina Colada Soap

Pina Colada Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

This soap will be available at Greatcakessoapworks.com on February 27th.

Scenting Soaps Naturally

For the past couple of years I have contemplated how I can offer more naturally scented soaps – that is, using plant-derived scents instead of synthetic fragrances. Natural essential oils can provide many beneficial properties from the plants they were extracted from. Some are anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-depressant, and the list goes on… (For more information about essential oils and their properties, please visit AromaWeb.)

However, there are limitations to using essential oils in handmade soaps. Natural scents are limited by what can be found in nature, and what can be distilled into an essential oil. Even though apples and raspberries can be found in nature, there’s no such thing as apple or raspberry essential oil, for example. Natural scents are usually quite a bit more expensive than their synthetic counterparts, and their scents may not hold up to what is initially a rather harsh environment when the soap is made. As the soap cures over several weeks, it becomes extremely mild, but during those first 24 hours the fresh soap is very caustic and hot. Some natural essential oils can be skin irritants, and others can cause the skin to be extra-sensitive to sun exposure, and some are unsafe during pregnancy, so not all natural ingredients are actually good for your skin!

There are several soaps in the Great Cakes Soapworks line that are currently scented synthetically, but could be scented naturally. For instance, last year I was able to create a blend of essential oils for the Oatmeal, Milk & Honey soap that doesn’t really smell like the synthetic fragrance I used to use, but is still a very nice alternative. Just this past week, I decided to see if I could re-create the Cinnamon Bun Coffee Soap with some natural essences. I have some 20-fold vanilla oleoresin that is quite thick and holds up to the soapmaking process. Combining it with a bit of cinnamon essential oil smells pretty fantastic, but doesn’t have the same WOW factor as the synthetic fragrance. Not to mention that the oleoresin alone is more than twice the price of its synthetic counterpart. Here is the result of my test batch of five bars:

natural cinn bun soap Scenting Soaps Naturally

Naturally scented Cinnamon Bun Coffee Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

I don’t think I’ll be re-creating this soap in a full-sized batch though. Even if the scent came close to what my customers are used to, unfortunately I couldn’t justify the price.

I also experimented with a couple of new soaps that are completely natural, and I believe they turned out much nicer. The first one is a test batch (5 bars) of Ginger Lime, made with ginger CO2 extract and four-fold lime essential oil and colored with algae powder:

ginger lime soap Scenting Soaps Naturally

All-natural Ginger Lime soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

It smells amazing!! I’m not sure how the green color will hold up over time, but I like the results so far! Depending on how my customers like it, I am hoping to create full-sized batches (24 bars) of this one.

The next soap came as a request from a customer for something scented with bergamot. She uses it in an oil diffuser at home and wanted to know if I had any soaps or could make a soap with the same scent. She reminded me that bergamot is what gives earl grey tea its flavor! I used a bergamot essential oil with reduced bergaptine, so it won’t cause photosensitivity and mixed it with a couple other “secret” essential oils. The result is what I’m calling Citrus Soother:

citrus soother2 Scenting Soaps Naturally

All-natural Citrus Soother Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

Citrus Soother is colored with rose clay, french green clay, and more algae powder. I made a medium-sized batch of this one, so there are 11 bars. All three of these all-natural soaps will be available for purchase at Greatcakessoapworks.com around February 11th.

On the Curing Rack: Heartbeat Soap

I had another idea for a Valentines soap, so I did a bit of experimenting this week. You can see the results on my YouTube videos here and here. The second one ended up being rather interesting, and my YouTube viewers named it for me!

This is Heartbeat; so named because it looks like a heart monitor:

heart beat soap On the Curing Rack: Heartbeat Soap

Heartbeat Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

Heartbeat is scented with our fabulous Black Raspberry Creme, so you know it’s delicious! Only 11 will be available, starting February 6th at Greatcakessoapworks.com

On the Curing Rack: Valentines Soaps!

This year for Valentines soaps, I decided to use the tiger stripe technique for both the girls and the guys. The color schemes are similar as well. The guys soap is scented with a custom blend that includes amber, sandalwood, musk, as well as a famous cologne dupe (my hubby wears the real thing!). It’s very dreamy!! Colors are black, white and red:

smitten On the Curing Rack: Valentines Soaps!

Smitten – Guys Valentines Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

Here’s another view:

smitten2 On the Curing Rack: Valentines Soaps!

Inside is tiger striped – tops are swirled

For the girls, I knew I wanted to use a Pink Sugar fragrance, a super sweet cotton candy scent with notes of bergamot, raspberry, fig, vanilla, caramel and musk. However, it is also known to discolor the soap to a medium to dark brown. I had two different bottles from two different suppliers. One discolors more than the other, so I used the darker one in the black stripes, and the lighter one in the white stripes, and left the pink stripe unscented:

pink sugar1 On the Curing Rack: Valentines Soaps!

Pink Sugar – Girls Valentines Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

The view of the tops:

pink sugar2 On the Curing Rack: Valentines Soaps!

Also tiger striped inside with swirls on top!

Both soaps will be fully cured and available at Greatcakessoapworks.com on January 29th!

$5.00 Soap Sale Today Only!

It’s the day after Christmas, and I’ve added all five of the rebatched soaps to Greatcakessoapworks.com for a one-day soap sale! All of these new soaps, plus all the other soaps I have left are on sale for just $5.00! Click photos below to purchase:

beachfront soap $5.00 Soap Sale Today Only!

Beach Front Soap – Very refreshing with hints of floral, mint and sea salt wafting on an ocean breeze.

vanilla granite soap1 $5.00 Soap Sale Today Only!

Stonegazer Soap – Looks like granite, smells like buttercream vanilla!

mint apple soap1 $5.00 Soap Sale Today Only!

Mint Apple Soap – Mostly peppermint with hints of apple and poppies

plumberry soap1 $5.00 Soap Sale Today Only!

Plumberry Soap – Sweet, fruity scent with bits of cinnamon coffee soap

lav lime1 $5.00 Soap Sale Today Only!

Lavender Lime Soap – Clean, fresh scent of lavender and lime essential oils with a hint of orange.

Remember – $5.00 soap price is only good December 26, 2012. Orders from today will be processed, and then the website will remain open, but no orders will go out again until January 3rd. Winter Rose and Juniper Breeze soaps will be available, along with a new batch of Deep Patchouli shampoo bars and Oatmeal, Milk & Honey soap will also be back in stock!

Hair Chalk Recipe and Tips

If you subscribe to the Brambleberry newsletter, you should have received a recipe for making hair chalk about three days ago. My nine-year-old daughter has been asking for a blue streak in her hair for quite some time, but I never wanted to do it permanently, so we decided to try this out with some ultramarine blue! Brambleberry states that the chalk should wash out in the first wash – or two, if your hair is very light. Be warned: this can be a very messy thing to make if children are involved!

Hair Chalk Recipe from Brambleberry

2 Tablespoons Colorant (We found that oxides and Bramble Berry neon pigments worked best and micas didn’t really work at all; they just crumble apart.)
1/2 Teaspoon Kaolin Clay
1 Tablespoon Witch Hazel
1/2 teaspoon Arrowroot Powder
1/2 teaspoon Water

Equipment Needed:
Gloves * Apron * Spray Bottle with water * Comb * Blow-Dryer * Hairspray

To Make Hair Chalk

ONE: Mix dry colorant and kaolin together in a bowl big enough to stick both hands in.

TWO: Place arrowroot and water in a separate small container and microwave for 5 seconds. You do not want it gummy, just slightly thickened. If it’s not thick after 5 seconds, try again on three second bursts. (Amy’s notes: when they say thickened, it means just starting to gel or coagulate. If you do not reach this stage, the chalk will NOT form.)

THREE: Add the witch hazel to the dry powders, and hand mix together (while wearing gloves!). Once well mixed, add arrowroot powder and water slurry. Really squish the mixture together. You don’t want it crumbly or wet, or to have bits of undispersed clay. It should have texture just like kid’s modeling clay. If it is too dry, spritz witch hazel one spritz at a time until correct consistency is reached.

FOUR: Roll mixture on a piece of parchment paper until you get the shape you like. Allow to air dry overnight.

To Apply Hair Chalk

ONE: Put an old sheet or towel over the shoulders of the person you’re applying the color to. Wet designated area of hair desired to be chalked. We used a spray bottle of water. (Amy’s notes: I would put the person in a bathtub as well. We ended up with some crumbled bits of hair chalk on the floor.)

TWO: Wearing gloves, apply the chalk to the wet area by dragging it along the strands. Use your fingers to rub the chalk into the hair really well.

THREE: Once you’ve reached the desired amount of coverage, comb through the hair to evenly distribute the chalk. (Amy’s note: your comb will turn color, but you should be able to wash it off.)

FOUR: Heat-set the chalk using either a blow-dryer, curling iron, or straightener. A curling iron or straightener may not be the best idea for those with damaged hair. You can also straighten or curl the hair after you blow-dry it. (Amy’s notes: I applied a LOT of chalk to her hair. After drying it with a blow-dryer, the hair got really stiff and we had to comb through it again. This was another somewhat messy step, as you could see the dry chalk flying.)

FIVE: Spray chalked hair with hair spray so that it doesn’t brush off onto clothing.

hair chalk Hair Chalk Recipe and Tips

My daughter with blue hair chalk!

Amy’s Insights:

The good news is that the blue hair chalk washed out completely after the first shampoo! We attempted to make more hair chalk this morning because her sister wanted to try it, and we thought we might make some for Christmas presents. Her sister wanted a lime green, so we combined regular green oxide with yellow oxide with a 2:1 ratio. It seemed to work fine – except that I forgot to add the witch hazel to the colorant and kaolin clay and instead put it with the arrowroot powder and water. The consistency was a little off, so she ended up smearing more of it on her gloves and the waxed paper and didn’t end up with as much chalk as her sister did. Oops!!

We also attempted another hair chalk with the electric bubblegum colorant and I made the same mistake! Only this time the slurry hadn’t really gelled at all, so I ended up really ruining it. After combining the slurry with the colorant and kaolin clay, the chalk wouldn’t form at all! I tried to put the whole thing in the microwave for a few seconds to help it set up, but we ended up with hard chunks along with watery parts and had to throw everything out. The electric bubblegum colorant really stains the skin, so I’m not sure I would recommend using it for hair chalk unless you were being really careful and NOT applying it around the hairline. Lesson learned: FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!

UPDATE:
I just made 5 more batches. I tried following the recipe and made another batch with the bubblegum pink – another failed batch!! First of all, when you only combine the arrowroot powder with the water, after 5 seconds in the microwave, you have a solid ball of goo. I really think adding the witch hazel with the arrowroot and water is the way to go, and I’m sure this is how we must have made the first blue batch which turned out so well. I never could get the pink batch to solidify. Tried adding more arrowroot slurry, more kaolin clay…nothing worked. I ended up with a big glob of pink goo!!

Next batch worked out perfectly! I used hydrated chromium green oxide this time and only combined the oxide with the kaolin clay. I made the slurry out of the witch hazel, arrowroot and water. The key for me was to make sure the liquids only filled the measuring spoon until it was level (no extra rounded top!). With my microwave, I figured out that six seconds was good for the first burst (take it out and swirl it around in the cup), then two more four-second bursts (swirling it around after the first one, and stirring with a spoon after the second one). It was just starting to gel at that point and I could stir it up until it was just thickened.

After that I made a batch with ultramarine purple and just a bit of ultramarine blue. It came out too sticky because I added too much liquid up front (make sure it’s LEVEL in the measuring spoon!). Even after adding more kaolin clay, I lost half of it because it was stuck to the sides of the bowl.

Next I made another ultramarine blue batch that turned out perfectly. (See I’m learning!)

Finally I made a batch with brick red oxide that half worked. It turned out extra dry, and I’m afraid it’s going to crumble when it’s applied. I tried adding more witch hazel…no luck. Then I tried adding more water…again no luck! It just didn’t want to stick together like the hydrated chromium green and ultramarine blue did. Photos of the final products:

hair chalk2 Hair Chalk Recipe and Tips

Left to right: ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium green, ultramarine purple (with a bit of blue), brick red oxide

Hoping to gift these to my nieces tomorrow!

Adding Color to Rebatched Soap

I really am on a roll with this rebatched soap! It’s a good thing too, because my soap inventory is running extremely low and these just might be available before Christmas! I’m waiting to see how long it takes for the extra water to evaporate and will keep you posted.

Yesterday’s batches were an experiment in adding color to the base of the soap. The first batch started out as a not-so-pretty brown, so I decided to darken it up with some new moon black mica. As soon as the soap was mostly melted, I added half a tablespoon of mica mixed* with a bit of water to the entire batch. Then I added as many colorful shreds as I could find (I soon realized that my color choices were very limited!) and a vanilla buttercream fragrance that is out of this world! Now, this soap really looks like granite:

vanilla granite soap Adding Color to Rebatched Soap

What should I call this one?

The next soap was a combination of Lavender Meadows and Bye Bye Bugs scraps. The base was rather light in color, so I figured I could add some purple mica to liven it up. Again, just half of a tablespoon mixed in some water seemed to do the trick! When it was finished, I stirred in some white soap chunks. Since it already had a bit of lavender and citrus scent to it, I just added more lavender, some lime, and a hint of orange essential oils. Such a clean, fresh scent! I believe I’ll call it Lavender Lime.

lav lime Adding Color to Rebatched Soap

Lavender Lime Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

I haven’t made any more rebatched soap today – yet. But the day isn’t over! Let me know if you have suggestions for naming the Vanilla one!

*Micas really aren’t hydrophilic, so they tend to resist being mixed with water. However, I think the water helps disperse the mica, so I do it anyway!

Rebatching?? Never Thought I Would…

…EVER do it again! That’s why I started donating my soap scraps to Clean the World, right? So I would never have to rebatch. Well, the problem is that I have 45 (that’s forty-five!) pounds of soap scraps. I checked into sending them off to Clean the World, and it was going to cost me $47!!! I just couldn’t do it.

Then I saw this post by The Midlife Farmwife that caught my eye. Rebatching in the crock pot! With photos! And a recipe! And promises of soap that looks like granite in about an hour! Now there’s something I could wrap my head around.

Every other time I’ve tried to rebatch, I’ve done HUGE batches in the oven that took forever…and then by the time I got them in the mold, the soap would cool down and look horrible! Not to mention that I had to shred all the soap before I could melt it down. Ugh. Yuck! Horrible!

This soap is already shredded. It’s mostly the slivers that I cut off when I bevel the edges of the soap. There are a few larger pieces that need to be cut up, but for the most part, the hard work is already done! So I decided to get started with some peppermint soap scraps and a few other who-knows-what scraps:

rebatch2 Rebatching??  Never Thought I Would...

About 28 ounces of soap scraps ready to melt down

These were still soft and not very old, so instead of adding a 1/2 cup of castor oil as Donna suggests, I only added 1/3 cup, plus 1/2 cup of water. It took my old crock pot a little over an hour to really melt down. The peppermint was still pretty strong, so I just added a couple squirts of green apple fragrance and mixed in about five ounces of green & red soap chunks:

rebatch3 Rebatching??  Never Thought I Would...

Melted soap mixed with soap chunks, ready to smush into the mold

My soap never really gelled, just melted. I probably could have added more water and left it to cook a little longer, but it turned out like this:

mint apple soap Rebatching??  Never Thought I Would...

Mint Apple Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

I had my next batch already planned, but I only have one 2 lb. mold. Fortunately, it doesn’t take long for hot-processed soap to cool down and hold its shape. I was able to take the first batch out of the mold (still in the freezer paper), re-line it, and go again about three hours later.

The soap scraps for the second batch weren’t very fragrant, so I went ahead and melted them down and added an ounce of Plumberry fragrance and some soap chunks that I believe might have been Figgy Pudding from last year as well as some strips of Cinnamon Bun coffee soap. I made sure this batch was more fluid and hot before smushing it in the mold.

plumberry soap Rebatching??  Never Thought I Would...

Plumberry Soap by Great Cakes Soapworks

I love being able to use up soap scraps AND samples of fragrances! I may end up with a truck-load of rebatched soap by the time I’m done! Will I be financially ahead in the end? I’m not sure I can answer that, considering there is still quite a bit of time involved for the amount of soap created from each batch. However, if I am able to sell it, I can at least raise the funds to send whatever is left to Clean the World when I’m done. (I highly doubt I will soap my way through all 45 pounds!) Besides, if it’s fun and I get to be creative – who cares? I’ve already created another batch this morning!

Here are my best takeaway points:
1. Small 2 lb. recipe
2. Use soap that is already shredded and try to create a color scheme!
3. Get ‘er done fast!
4. Add water AND oil
5. Mix in more chunks near the end for added interest

Update: I’ve been discussing with another soapmaker how the extra oil may inhibit the lather of the rebatched soap. I am planning to use glycerin instead from now on. I’ve also heard that milk can be added!