She agreed to let me interview her to give you more information about her mission and purpose in creating this informative resource.

What inspired you to start Optiderma? How long has it taken for your ideas to materialize? Do you suffer from a particular skin condition yourself?

I started Optiderma because I noticed more and more people have skin problems and are looking for natural solutions. I suffer from psoriasis and couldn’t find what I was really looking for on the web. My interest in natural therapies made me want to develop an online skin health magazine to share my knowledge with other skin sufferers. It took me two years to create Optiderma as it is today. Optiderma.com has been officially online since January 2009. Thanks to my partner who is a web developer and my background in communication, this website is the result of many months of work gathering reliable information, designing the layout, and structuring the information so that it is easier for people to find what they are looking for.

The main idea is not to replace health care professionals but allowing a community of people, from the patient to the practitioner, to share their knowledge. This is why my focus is to interview practitioners such as naturopaths, herbalists, nutritionists and so on, to inform and educate people on how to heal their skin problems naturally.

I noticed that Optiderma offers many food recipes as well as skin care recipes. How does our diet affect our skin?

I believe there is an effect of particular diets on our skin. Some foods can promote healing or decrease of inflammation. Many people find out that their skin disease is due to a food intolerance or allergy. Every time you take things in your body that irritate your skin, it may promote inflammation. Personally, I need to stay away from dairy products because they promote inflammation in my body and it is hard because I am French and I love cheese! But what helps some individuals may actually aggravate the symptoms in others. So we all need to find our proper diet.

There is actually little scientific research on diet and the impact on skin conditions. But we know that diet is so important to strengthen our immune system. If you are tired, stressed, and do not eat properly, you are likely to see the symptoms of your skin disease getting worse.

Which skin condition is searched most often at Optiderma?

Sunburn is searched most often because of the time of the year. Natural remedies for psoriasis, acne, fungus, and cuts are also popular searches.

It seems like more people are suffering from skin sensitivities than ever before. What do you think is causing this, and how can Optiderma help?

I think more and more products are made from petrochemicals and are easily absorbed by your body causing rashes and allergies. This is why I advise people to check this skin care database, www.cosmeticsdatabase.com, before buying a product, or to make their own skincare products.

Optiderma offers a database of skin care recipes shared by the community. For the moment, there is just a few but this database is going to grow over time.

What is the difference between the information you can find at Optiderma compared to what you can find at WebMD?

Well, Optiderma contains less information than WebMD, but we are more specialized. We focus on skin and natural remedies and offer advice from a variety of people through articles, interviews, recipes, testimonials, books, etc.

What information are you currently seeking for Optiderma? What are your long-term goals for the site?

I always look for new skin care topics. If I had the time, I could write hundreds of articles every day! At the moment, I am working by myself and I can’t interview as many practioners as I would like to. I am starting to look for other web journalists.

My long term goal is to have at least several reliable articles, interviews, recipes, and testimonials for each skin condition. I am starting to have practitioners interested in writing articles as well, which is great. I want Optiderma to become a reliable skin health guide mainly in the US and Canada. A French version is also on its way…

More about Josephine Toulemonde: Originally from the north of France, she has been living in the Canadian Rockies since 2006. Previously project manager in a communication agency in Montreal, she has a master diploma in communication and information.

In 2007, she became a vitamin consultant for a health food store in Canmore in the Canadian Rockies, and decided to deepen her knowledge on natural therapies for skin conditions, especially for psoriasis. Today she is developing her own personal natural skin care recipes and has qualification in digestive care and nutritional product advising.

I highly recommend checking out Optiderma.com and the wealth of information you can find there for all your natural skin health needs! If you are a natural soap maker, you might considering advertising with Optiderma.com.

Here’s another interesting study:

Laboratory tests reveal adolescent girls across America are contaminated with chemicals commonly used in cosmetics and body care products. Environmental Working Group (EWG) detected 16 chemicals from 4 chemical families – phthalates, triclosan, parabens, and musks – in blood and urine samples from 20 teen girls aged 14-19. Studies link these chemicals to potential health effects including cancer and hormone disruption. These tests feature first-ever exposure data for parabens in teens, and indicate that young women are widely exposed to this common class of cosmetic preservatives, with 2 parabens, methylparaben and propylparaben, detected in every single girl tested.

Another resource talks about our “chemical body burden” – chemical residues that can be detected in blood, urine, and breast milk. Bill Moyers of PBS had his blood and urine analyzed as part of a study sponsored by the Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York, and they found 84 distinct chemicals. Some were from common use, others have been banned for over 25 years!

One of the main culprits is sunscreen. A new study by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control (CDC) reveals that 97% of Americans are contaminated with a widely-used sunscreen ingredient called oxybenzone that has been linked to allergies, hormone disruption, and cell damage. A companion study published just one day earlier revealed that this chemical is linked to low birth weight in baby girls whose mothers are exposed during pregnancy. Sure enough, I checked all my bottles of sunscreen, and this is one of the active ingredients in every one of them!

The heated part of the discussion came from trying to figure out how some “natural skin care advocates” have come to the conclusion that absolutely everything we put on our skin penetrates to our bloodstream. This obviously cannot be true. Oh, Oh Organic has an excellent blog post that logically refutes the idea that our skin absorbs even 60 to 80% of what we put on it. For example:

Think about it – if your skin absorbed 60 to 80% of what you put on it, wouldn’t you start to look a little puffy? I keep having visions of the Michelin Man when we get out of the shower . . . if we absorb all this stuff – where does it go? What happens in the shower, do we absorb all that water? Where is the logic in these statements?

My stance on the subject remains pretty much the same as it always has. Yes, certain chemicals do penetrate our skin and end up in our bloodstream. Several studies have documented this. I’m not entirely convinced that using a salt bar soap will increase your blood pressure, however. But in my mind, if you have the opportunity to use more natural products, why wouldn’t you?

Resources cited:

http://www.organicconsumers.org/bodycare/nanoparticles.cfm

http://www.ewg.org/book/export/html/26953

http://www.pbs.org/tradesecrets/problem/bodyburden.html

http://www.ewg.org/node/26212

http://www.ohohorganic.com/blog/2008/07/does-our-skin-absorb-personal-care.html

skin absorb, chemicals in blood

Herbal Natures Minerals and Prime

So today I received my order in the mail, and this time, in addition to my usual stuff, Melanie included this beautiful bottle of “Prime”. It’s a decadent facial moisturizer formula with coconut milk, wonderful extracts, silk, vitamins, and monoi that is part of her new Botanical Skin Care Kit. So far, I’ve only tried a little bit on my hand and it feels wonderful! I’m looking forward to using it on my face tomorrow.

Read more about Herbal Natures affordable mineral makeup in my interview with Melanie almost a year ago.

Old Fashioned Lye Soap

So, why no superfat in the old fashioned lye soap? There are three different uses of this soap that make superfatting unnecessary:

1. Laundry soap. Of course, back in the day, lye soap was all that was used for laundry soap. Some people still like to use it and declare that it’s way better than the commercial detergents that most people use today. If there was excess fat in the soap, it would leave oil marks on clothing.

2. Poison ivy remedy. You can read more about how to use old fashioned lye soap to treat poison ivy by clicking the link. Because the soap has a drying effect without the superfat, it can help heal up those pesky – perhaps “miserable” is a better word – outbreaks.

3. Facial soap for oily skin. An elderly lady was talking to me at the farmer’s market one day about growing up using old fashioned lye soap for everything – including skin, of course. She was convinced that people had fewer acne problems back then because of the soap. One of my customers gave me this testimonial: “After buying your lye soap this summer, I have noticed that my teenage son’s acne has cleared and my hands aren’t nearly as dry as usual in the winter. My family’s skin has always been sensitive and your soap has been a true blessing!”
—Kathy B., Olathe, KS

Now I’ve heard from other soapmakers that this soap really doesn’t need to cure all that long, since the longer a handmade soap cures, the milder it gets. The purpose of this soap isn’t to be mild at all, but to be somewhat drying. However, I will be leaving this one on the curing rack for two weeks anyway, so it will be available on March 10th.

I will be following up tomorrow with information about the differences between old fashioned lye soap and the handmade natural soap that soapmakers create today.

Here is some basic information about making emulsions (combining water and oil with an emulsifier), for those of you who are interested:

1. In order for the water soluble ingredients to combine with the oil soluble ingredients, you need an emulsifer. One of the most stable emulsifiers is called “emulsifying wax”. It comes in little creamy colored pastilles that must be melted with the oil soluble ingredients.

2. If you want to have a thin lotion, you use more water soluble ingredients. If you want a thicker cream, you use a higher percentage of oil soluble ingredients. This can also be achieved by using vegetable butters such as cocoa butter, or oils that are solid at room temperature such as coconut oil. One of the specialty ingredients that I ordered is an extra virgin coconut oil that is only lightly processed and still smells like fresh coconut.

3. All of the equipment used to make the lotion or cream must be sterilized. Any time water soluble ingredients are used, this is an open door for bacteria. The water soluble ingredients should also be heated to a tempurature of 170 degrees to kill any bacteria that might already be living in them. Which leads to the next point…

4. Emulsions must be preserved. Preservatives come in many different varieties. Paraben preservatives have gotten a bad rap for allegedly being linked to cancer, although I’ve recently heard that the evidence supporting this is inconclusive. Most of the preservatives found in bath and body products at the store contain a chemical preservative, usually with parabens. I use a non-paraben preservative in all my lotions, just to be on the safe side. There are some new naturally derived preservatives that have come on the market, but most are either difficult to work with, must be combined with a synthetic preservative to be effective, or they stink! Literally. One of the other specialty ingredients coming in my shipment on Friday is a natural preservative called Tinosan. It contains citric acid and silver citrate – that’s it. I’ve heard good things about Tinosan, so I’m anxious to test it for myself.

Stay tuned for more information about my quest for the “perfect” facial moisturizing cream formula! I may be needing some testers…

It is the way we treat our skin – not the aging process – that “ages” our skin the most, especially delicate facial skin. The intrinsic (internal) process is compounded considerably by extrinsic (external) influences.

Negative contributors such as stress, sun exposure and other climatic extremes, harsh soaps and detergent based products including some moisturizers, air pollution and other environmental toxins, poor and rough treatment, chemical laden facial products, smoking and alcohol consumption, poor nutrition, sleep deprivation, hormones, illness etc. One only has to compare the skin on their face to that of the inner thigh to prove that point~

This is excellent information, but there are several on the list that I can cross off immediately. Ever since I started making my own soaps and lotions, I haven’t gone back to any of the “chemical-laden” cleansers, moisturizers or makeup.

I always use a mild, handmade soap on my face, and I highly recommend my Creamy Castile soap for all faces.

I have made my own facial moisturizers, but have never sold them. I’m still trying to find that “perfect” formula! This fall since my skin has been so dry – flaky even – I have tried using some of my Whipped Shea Butter on my face. When I was a teenager with acne, I never would have dreamed that my skin might be this dry.

I switched to handmade Mineral Makeup from Herbal Natures about a year and a half ago too. It has definitely been nice to my skin.

I don’t drink or smoke, I eat smart and sleep well, no change in hormones or my “normal” exposure to environmental toxins. So what else has changed this season?

There is one other simple thing in addition to the information Alice has provided: proper hydration. You know, the recommended daily dose of 8 glasses a day (ideally ½ your body weight in ounces of water)*. I know a lot of people struggle with this, including me – and especially during the colder months when my body isn’t telling me that I need it quite as often. Water.com agrees:

Cold winter air can pull the moisture right out of your skin, making it feel dry and flaky. In order to combat this problem, you can carry moisturizer and lip balm with you at all times, and you can also run a humidifier in your home, which will keep the air – and your skin – moist. But most importantly, staying hydrated in the winter months by drinking water will help your skin maintain its moisture.

So how can we all remember to drink more water in the wintertime? I think we need some tips! Here are a few of the better ones that I found:

–If you are cold drink warm water instead of dehydrating coffee & tea.
–Set a timer to remind yourself to establish a habit of drinking water and keep a bottle of water with you at all times.

Add your comments too! How do you stay hydrated in the winter?

For Prevention: Bathe within an hour after contact.
For Treatment: Mash a small amount of Lye Soap with warm water, and apply to affected areas with a cotton swab. Dispose of swab after use.
Do Not Put Contaminated Swab Back On Soap. The oil from the poison ivy or poison oak will contaminate the soap and spread the dreaded itching.
Do Not Wash! Leave paste to dry on skin. Reapply as needed after gently rinsing with cool water and cider vinegar.**

**These statements have not been evaluated by the FDA. They may provide temporary relief, but are not intended to diagnose or treat any medical condition or to replace the advice of a health professional. As with any product, if you experience a negative reaction of any kind, discontinue use immediately.

One of my customers is a landscaper and she also recommends a product called Ivy Dry. It’s available at most major drug stores and grocery stores.

I found a great article about this at EcoVoice.com. Here are some excerpts:

Our skin, the largest eliminatory organ in the body and our first line of immunity, is permeable to all chemicals. Medical research shows that significant amounts of cosmetic ingredients, including carcinogenic substances, penetrate the skin and end up in the blood stream. Many chemicals in cosmetics don’t cause obvious signs of toxicity on the skin but slowly poison us thorough repeated use.

This makes perfect sense too:

Today, the administration of drugs and medicines is often through transdermal skin patches. This has been shown to be up to 95% more effective than oral medication. However, cosmetic manufacturers are not supposed to claim that the skin absorbs their products. If they did the products would be labelled a drug and governed by much stricter regulations.

This is both good and bad for us. Good because it means our skin can be fed, nourished and treated from the outside with some wonderful substances.

Yes! Like fresh goat’s milk soaps, Jojoba-Shea lotions without petroleum products…

Bad because it means we can absorb commonly used cosmetic ingredients that would never be allowed to be taken orally as a food or drug, through our skin.

Want to see what you’re putting on your skin? Check out the Skin Deep cosmetic database. It has the ingredients that go into most of the personal care products on the market with a toxicity rating for each one. Pretty interesting stuff!

skin absorb, cosmetics, chemicals penetrate skin

After using the Herbal Natures Mineral Foundation and Radiance Veil instead of my usual liquid foundation that I bought at Walmart, I realized how much smoother and healthier my face looked and felt. The mineral makeup helped dry up my oily spots and blemishes, and it doesn’t even feel like I’m wearing makeup at all! The best part is the price – highly affordable, and even after using the mineral cosmetics nearly every day, I just recently had to re-order.

I thought my readers might want to hear more, so I asked Melanie if I could interview her, and she graciously agreed.

Me: “Melanie, how did you get started learning how to formulate mineral cosmetics?”

Melanie: “Amy, first, let me thank you for the positive review of Herbal Natures mineral cosmetics! It is very much appreciated. Now to answer your question: I began with a desire to use mineral cosmetics myself. I absolutely did not want to pay the high prices of minerals on the market, so I started on my venture to make mineral cosmetics. Thru trial and error, I came up with the formulas and began to offer these on my web site.”

Me: “Can all skin types use mineral cosmetics? How well does it work for mature skin?”

Melanie: “Yes, all skin types can use minerals. For very oily skin types, I have created custom blends for my customers and they are pleased with the results. Mature skin can use minerals as well. Minimize the use of extra glittery products on mature skin. And for all skin types, using a natural bristle brush is a must.”

Me: “I learned from an Aloette consultant that you should clean your make up brushes at least once a week with a dab of shampoo, and never use anti-bacterial soap. Why is it important to clean your brushes?”

Melanie: “Great question! Contrary to what some may think, our make up brushes, just like our toothbrushes, need to be cleaned regularly. If your brushes are not kept clean, not only will you not get optimal performance from your brushes, but you will be adding dirt, residual make up, and bacteria back onto your skin. I only offer natural hair bristle brushes. The natural brushes are easier to clean, and dry faster. Natural bristle brushes also allow mineral cosmetics to be applied with ease and the application is very natural looking. My absolute favorite brush is the luscious kabuki. It is so soft and feels like velvet across my face.

Me: “What are some of the ingredients that cosmetic companies use as fillers, and why should they be avoided?”

Melanie: “I am amazed when reading the ingredient listing labels of different companies. There are a lot of additional ingredients used that are not needed. Frequently used as an extender or for offering a pearlescence is bismuth oxychloride. While it may offer a pearly sheen to the minerals, it can accentuate pores and can cause breakouts.”

Me: “Do your mineral cosmetics provide any sunscreen power?”

Melanie: “While I am not allowed to claim a SPF value to our mineral cosmetics, the light reflective properties of the ingredients used in our minerals will offer protection from the sun because the skin will be reflecting the sun’s rays rather than absorbing them. Many over-the-counter sunscreens contain zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide because of their ability to reflect light.

Me: “What are the essential basic products would you recommend for someone who is just getting started?”

Melanie: “I recommend foundation, mineral veil and blush. And of course, a high quality natural bristle brush.”

Me: “Are you working on adding any new products to your line?”

Melanie: “Oh yes! I’m working on offering a pressed line of eye colors, as well as lip and eye pencils.”

Me: “I’ve noticed that you are a Christian as I am. How does your faith influence your business?”

Melanie: “My faith keeps me grounded in the basic principles of honesty, integrity and commitment. Doing the right thing is not always easy, but it certainly is worth it. Again Amy, I thank you for the interview. If anyone has any questions, please contact me, and I will do my best to help you with your concerns.”

Isn’t she great? If you have never tried mineral makeup because of the price, you have no more excuses! For my first order, I paid less than $45 for the foundation, mineral veil, blush, and a brush, including shipping. Try it! You’ll like it! Visit Herbal Natures today!