All 5 test batches of Skin Glow Facial Moisturizer

I like to work with percentages so that no matter what size the recipe is, I can duplicate it proportionately. I went back to my original recipe with the percentages and re-calculated a few things. For one, I’ve had some issues with the emulsion breaking down over time (most notably in the summer months), so I thought I’d try increasing the cetyl esters which are supposed to add stability. I also recalculated the water phase with the green tea extract added in, and increased the squalane and macadamia nut oil to make up for the loss of the oil soluble green tea extract. Of course, I also decided to try out a different natural preservative while I was at it, so there are now at least three different variables that have changed. Then I started making test batches.

The first one turned out too thick and a little bit grainy. For the second batch, I changed a few things and the consistency was good, but it was still grainy. So I decided it might be a small batch issue. Like perhaps the oil phase wasn’t melted long enough or staying hot, so I tried making a regular sized batch. Now it was SUPER grainy:

Third test batch - a close look

Seriously? Now I’m thinking it has to be the new preservative, so I reformulated again with my original preservative. The fourth batch wasn’t too bad, but still seemed a little bit grainy. I finally backed down the cetyl esters to where they had originally been for the fifth batch, and now I have some decent looking moisturizer:

Fifth and final batch - looks pretty good!

The texture still isn’t quite the same as the original formula, but it’s close. And in case you were wondering, the golden color comes from organic sea buckthorn berry extract. It’s a mega-nutrient for your skin and has been used traditionally in skin care for hundreds of years. In addition to aiding in skin regeneration, it also offers some protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation.

I’m not exactly thrilled with the amount of ingredients that have been “wasted” in this reformulation adventure. These aren’t exactly your inexpensive soaping oils. I’m not even sure I’ve changed the stability issues, but I do know that this is one fabulous unscented facial moisturizer which should be back in stock very soon!

Skin Glow Facial Moisturizer by Great Cakes Soapworks

As promised, the sample-sized Skin Glow Facial Moisturizers are ready to go today! For those of you who have been on the fence about trying this product, now you can get a smaller size for just $5.00 that will last at least two weeks. Plenty of time for you to decide whether or not it works well for your skin. Keep in mind that it may take up to a week for your skin to adjust to a new product. However, most of the feedback I’ve received has been very positive with nearly immediate results. Now is a great time to give the Skin Glow Facial Moisturizer a try. Unscented, natural ingredients.

(By the way, this is my 300th post!)

In the meantime, I am planning to make some sample sized Skin Glow Facial Moisturizers this week so that you can try it without investing $15.95 for the full size. These will be half ounce sizes like the testers received for just $5. It should last at least two weeks – plenty of time for you to decide whether or not it works well for you. But I’m telling you, I’m getting lots of great feedback from customers. Even my friend Kathy recently told me that she really likes the Skin Glow. She used to use a Mary Kay moisturizer and she felt like her skin was always dry. Not any more! The secret is the tamarind seed extract. I’ve been told it holds 900x its weight in moisture to your skin. That’s pretty amazing!

Skin Glow Facial Moisturizer

You can read about all the wonderful ingredients of this unscented, natural moisturizer. You can also read the feedback from the testers who represented nearly every age and skin type.

It will remain on sale for just $12.50 thru Saturday, June 20. After that, regular price will be $15.95, so don’t miss out! Get your Skin Glow Facial Moisturizer before it sells out again!

Skin Glow Facial Moisturizer

The formula works surprisingly well for all skin types! You can read all about the testers’ feedback.

The yellow color comes from Sea Buckthornberry Extract – which works to regenerate cells (great for anti-aging formulas), and also offers some protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation. There are other wonderful extracts that contribute to the moisturizing effects without being greasy, including green tea and tamarind. Algae extract functions as a skin tightener, and also increases the formation of collagen. See the full ingredient list. The Skin Glow Facial Moisturizer is completely unscented.

I have also been using this formula ever since I offered it to the testers and have been very happy with the results! I get compliments on the condition of my skin quite regularly.

2 oz. treatment pump for just $12.50 – the first week only! Regular price will be $15.95.

facial moisturizer

The ones who had trouble with it were the ones with the most sensitive skin. Two people said that it caused them to have breakouts, so they had to discontinue using it. Two people said their dry skin did not get hydrated enough, while two people experienced a little bit oilier skin at first. One thought that the anti-aging ingredients could be stronger, and a couple people mentioned the color being a bit “off-putting”. (It’s a medium yellow from the Sea Buckthornberry Extract.) One person said she would like the texture to be a bit thicker.

Here are some quotes from those who had excellent results:

Lisa, age 33, in FL has oily skin. She says:

“Most moisturizers leave an oily film on my skin after a few days use. This is why I only use them once a day. This never made my skin feel oily at all. I normally use Mark, Estee Lauder, or Origins because they have certain items that help with oil control. I found that your cream works very well for oil contol and have not had to use the other brands.”

Most of my testers had combination skin – oily in some areas, dry in others – which is a good representation of most people.

From Kari, age 34, in PA:

“I would compare [this moisturizer] to the Philosophy Hope In A Jar. It took away the flakiness in the dry area and decreased shine in the oily areas.”

From Janie, age 56, in AR:

“It didn’t make [my skin] more oily, and the dry areas were hydrated. [My skin] was more supple and hydrated. Seriously, when can I purchase some?”

From Heather, age 29, in FL:

“I think it worked well. I have always been plagued by whiteheads due to under active sweat glands. This product kept my skin soft and smooth without clogging my pores. No new whiteheads emerged and my skin looked plumper and healthier. My makeup went on easily and didn’t wear out as fast. I give this product a B+!”

From Judy, age 52, in KS:

“It’s perfect. I experienced the same results I get from using my Arbonne, so that’s very good.”

From Courtney, age 34, in PA:

“The moisturizer worked very well. I have sensitive skin and could breakout in pimples or a red rash if a moisturizer is not right for my skin. This natural formula worked so well. My skin feels smooth, but not oily. I have been using the clarifying soap and with this moisturizer I have found my skin to be noticably smoother. I usually have a few bumps or dry patches. The Great Cakes Soapworks products have helped improve the look and feel of my skin tremendously. I am hooked!!!!”

Several with dry skin also loved the moisturizer.

Sue, age 57, in KS says:

“I felt the results the first time I used it. It left my skin soft and supple. A small amount was all that was needed.”

Sheila, age 37, in KS says:

“I have such dry skin that with other moisturizers I would have to apply one layer, let it soak in, and then apply another layer. This was the perfect balance for my skin type. It felt as though I didn’t have anything on my face, yet it didn’t feel dry. My skin appeared to be less blotchy and I had zero blemishes. I have unidentified skin allergies which led me to give up on the store moisturizers last year. I have been using your stress relief lotion which prevented me from having allergic reactions; however, it wasn’t working as well as the something designed for the face.”

Vicki, age 52, in KS says:

“The moisturizer absorbed quickly into my skin. My two daughters commented on how nice my face felt. I noticed how much smoother my neck looked too. I have tried a lot of moisturizers, and I can honestly say that I like the results I have had with the Great Cakes Soapworks moisturizer the best.”

Anice, age 35, in KS, is fortunate to have “normal” skin. Even though she didn’t have any noticeable difference in her skin, she says:

“I love the no odor/no fragrance, a little went a long way, it is not greasy! I love it. Keep us all updated on when it is ready to sell and price.”

There were also some unexpected bonuses that came with a couple of the testers.

Lauri, age 46, in KS, experienced some scratches on her face and arms during the time she was testing the moisturizer. She said,

“My household has 2 puppies, about 4 months right now, and they are very playful. One of them scratched me pretty good on my face. Those scratches were completely gone in 2 days on my face, but remained on my arms from the same incident.”

Lauri also mentioned that even though it took her skin awhile to adjust to the new moisturizer, after about a week of using the product, her skin started to feel softer than it has for a while – which she thought was a nice bonus!

Melinda, age 39, also in KS has very fair skin and felt that the moisturizer worked better than she expected it would. She said,

“I found most of my pimples went away and my skin seemed to look healthier. If I started breaking out with pimples, it seemed to make them go away. That was nice for a change as most facial mosturizers cause me to break out. One of the things I really liked was the lack of odor, no chemical or flowery smell. The lotion went on and disappeared immediately. When will the lotion be available for purchase?”

Ah yes. When will it be available? This week I will be sending some of this moisturizer to a lab to have it tested and make sure my formula is safe before I sell it. It may take several weeks to get the results back, so please be patient! I promise to let everyone know as soon as it’s ready.

The preservative I chose is citric acid (and) silver citrate, which is an all-natural product. When considering the types of preservatives available, this one has caught my attention, not only because it is natural, but also because it requires so little (0.1%) to be effective. I will have the final formula challenge tested in a lab to be sure that my formula is safe and bacteria-free before selling it.

When considering the types of preservatives available, parabens have become controversial because of a supposed link to cancer. This link has never been verified, but most people would rather err on the side of caution.

Other preservatives are what is known as formaldehyde donors. That is, as they interact with the product they are supposed to preserve, they can produce small amounts of formaldehyde. Also undesirable.

I experimented with a product called Geogard Ultra, INCI name: Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate which sounds more natural than some others, but isn’t really natural. It’s not a formaldehyde donor, so it has that going for it. However, it is a white powder which must be dissolved in water before use (it really didn’t want to dissolve), it requires a large percentage to be effective – especially when you consider that powders weigh much less than liquids, and it seemed to leave tiny air bubbles in my formulas. Bottom line: I didn’t like it!

If you would like to check the preservatives that are in your cosmetics, go to the Skin Deep database.

Test batch #3 - Turned out perfect!

This is it!! Third time was the charm. I’m ready to let my testers decide if this is truly a wonderful facial moisturizer. The final formula I made today has a smoother texture, is light yellow in color, and it is as un-scented as I can make it.

Here is my ingredient list:
Distilled water - I chose to go with simple. Skin needs moisture, and not necessarily “fancy” moisture. The batch I made yesterday was mostly neroli hydrosol (aka flower water) for the water portion. It added to the scent of the moisturizer, so I decided not to use it.
Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate - This is the emulsifier which is naturally derived from olive oil. It gives a very elegant feel – I think it’s very light and mousse-like. Clinical tests have demonstrated that it is hypoallergenic and an excellent choice for sensitive skin.
Tamarind Seed Extract - Much has been made recently about two studies in which Tamarind reportedly out performed hyaluronic acid in hydration trials. Even though tamarind extract alone only offers an SPF of 1, a study showed it was able to protect skin cells from UV damage and counteract UV immunosuppression. It seems like tamarind is doing much more at a cellular level than just lock in moisture.
Green Tea Extract - Both animal and human studies have credibly demonstrated that topical green tea formulations reduce sun damage. Green tea appears to exert sun damage protection by quenching free radicals and reducing inflammation rather than by blocking UV rays. *
Shea Butter - Has skin protectant properties; it also contains several natural anti-inflammatory agents and minor sunscreen agents.
Squalane Oil - Squalane is a light and stable version of olive oil squalene. Squalene is found naturally in the sebum of human skin and is believed to lubricate and protect skin.
Macadamia Nut Oil - I hesitated a little to use a nut oil since so many people have allergies, but I decided to go ahead because the many benefits. It is considered by many to be the best for antiaging products because of its high percentage of palmitoleic oil. It has a rich, cushiony feel, but will absorb quickly.
Algae Extract (and) Pullulan - This is a highly purified biotechnologically produced algae extract which functions as a skin tightener, providing immediate tightening to the skin. It also increases the formation of collagen – the skin’s connective tissue.
Cetyl Esters - Derived from coconut oil; it imparts a soft gloss and lubricous feel to formulations. No doubt contributing to the “mousse-like” feel.
Vitamin E - Increases the enzyme activity in the skin, and prevents free radical induced skin damage; a natural anti-oxidant.
Sea Buckthorn Berry Extract - (certified organic) This oil has been used traditionally in skin care for hundreds of years, so you can see why I feel it’s important to include, but just not quite so much. It works to regenerate cells – which makes it great for anti-aging formulas, and will also offer some protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation.
Citric Acid (and) Silver Citrate - all-natural preservative

Tomorrow I will be contacting some of the ladies who originally said they would be interested in testing the facial moisturizer with information about what I will need from them. (Unfortunately, I don’t have the budget to send this formula out to everyone who volunteered!) Hopefully, I will be able to post the results from the testers by the end of May.

* Extract information comes from Elixirbotanicals

The good news is that I had a long conversation with another soaper last night and she’s helped me with a new formula that she says is working for her 49-year-old skin, her daughter’s sensitive skin, and her son’s girlfriend’s oily skin. I’m going to adapt it slightly to use some of the wonderful oils and extracts that I already have, plus I ordered a few more goodies last night that have already shipped out and are expected to arrive here on Wednesday. I have high hopes!!